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(No Model.) Y a' sheets-sheen 1.

T. ANDERSON.

FIGURED PILE FABRIC?. No. 307,700. I' Patented Nov. 4, 1000u FIG:1

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(No Model.) 3 sheets-sheen 2. T. ANDERSON.

@wmv/I (No Model.) 3 sheets-Sheet s. T. ANDERSON.

FIGURED PILE FABRIC.

Patented Nov. 4, 1884.

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THOMAS ANDERSON, OF LIVERSEDGE, TEST RIDING, COUNTY OE YORK, ENGLAND.

FIGURED PILE FABRIC.

SPECIFICATION forming part of Letters Patent No. 307,700, dated November4, 1884.

Applieationiiled July 23, 1883. (No specimens.) latentvd in England Mhy13,

T0 all 1071/0772, t may concern,.-

Be :it known that I, Tnorras ANDnnsoN, a subject of the Queen ef GreatBritain and lreland, and residing at Liversedge, in the West Riding ofthe county of York, England, have invented Improvements in Figured PileFab ries, (for which I have obtained a patent in Great Britain, N o.2,25%, dated May 13, 1882,) of which the following is a specification.

This invention relates to the manufacture of that class of figured pilefabrics known as velvets77 or velveteens, wherein thcfigure pile isformed from the weft-threads, the object of the invention being tofacilitate the cutting of the pile, and to enable the k nife to passwith greater' certainty from the race77 of one :ligure of weft pile tothe corresponding race of another figure of the same without liabilityto slip out of the race or to trip `What is known as a race invelvet-weaving is the space or furrow underneath the floated threadswherein the point of the knife `travels in cuttingthe said iioatedthreads to form the pile.

Fig. 2 is a diagram showing a fabric of known constructii'm. Fig. 3 is asection along the thread A B, Fig. l. Fig. et is a weavers dia gramshowing how my fabric is made.

In designing the patterns for the mamita@ ture of such figured weft-pilefabrics according to my invention the design is so arranged that theoutline thereof steps or moves in races at the edge of the iigures-thatis to say, where the edge of the pattern crosses the warp-threads itmust always step the eX- aet number of threads which corresponds withthe distance between each two races, or a multiple of such number.Forexample, ifa design is made with a pile floating over seven warpthreads and one binding thread, in which there is one race for every twowarpthreads in the cloth, asin an ordinary E l771 velvet, then, as thereis arace for every two war1i -threads, the edge of the figure must stepor move two warp-threads t or any multiple of two) at a time. "This isclearly shown at Fi l in the annexed drawings, which represent ahighly-magnified plan view of the face of a piece of uncut figuredvelvet woven accordlean ing to my invention. The perpendicular bands arethe warp-threads and the horizontal bands are the weft threads, thewhite being the floated threads which form the pile, and the shadedbands being the binding weft-threads which ferm the back. The patternrepresents the point ot` a leaf, the black outlines showing clearly theedges of the pattern stepping at the sides invariably two warpthreads(or one racc) at a time, as at a a a a, or a multiple ofthe same, as atb1. The same system applies to any other weftpile velvet or velveteentie-up, of course varying the stepping or moving at the edges of thepatA tern according to the tie-np used. For instance, in a pile whichhas a race for every four warp-threads, the pattern would step or movein feurs,(or multiples of fours,) and so on, the edges of the designthus always step ping in races. rlhe advantage of this system is that itfacilitates the cutting, as it enables the eutters knife to enter therace (after passing` over a portion of the ground) much more easily thanon the old plan, on account of the Figure l is a diagram showing myfabric.

small squares formed by stepping er meving in races, which act as guidesfor the point of the knife and prevent it from slipping ont of the race.To illustrate this l have shown at Fig. 2 the same pattern as it wouldbe woven according to the best method known previously to my invention,when it will be seen that the pattern steps at the edges by a singlewarpethread only at a time, and in consequence of this the knife veryfrequently cntered the wrong race or passed through the back of thecloth after crossing over :a portion of the ground, but this difficultyis evercome to a great extent by my improvement.

Another point to be observed in designing the patterns according to myinvention is that, in addition to stepping or moving in races along theedge of the patterns, care must be taken to turn the points at the topand bottoni of each figure on an odd number of warpthreads, as shown atc c in Fig. l, where the point is turned on ive threads, the exactnumber of threads at the turning-point depending, of course, on theshape of the ligure or pattern. The object of thus turning the point ofthe pattern on an odd number of ends is that the race IOO will always benearly at the center of the small square or step, and thus the cuttingofthe pile is facilitated. In addition to the above system of' steppingin races at the edges of the design and turning the points of thepattern at top and bottom on an odd number of warpthreads, I also throwthe short floats at the edges of the pattern to the back of the cloth.For instance, in a weft pile of seven-thread float I throw all thesmaller floats than five threads to the back of the cloth. Floats offour threads could be cut; but I find it much easier for cutting ifthere are no smaller floats on the surface than five threads. Onreference to Fig. l it will be seen that none of the floated pilethreads on the face pass over fewer than five warp-threads, while at theedges of the velvet or velveteen pile figures made von the old planthere is always a large quantity of short floats, which interfere withthe-cutting, as they have a tendency to throw the cutters knife out ofthe race, (see Fig. 2, where floats over two, three, and fourWarp-threadsl are seen at d d along both sides of the patterng) butaccording to my improvement, (sec Fig. 1,) as these short floats arethrown to the back of the cloth, instead of the fece, the cutting isgreatly facilitated, even with a seven-thread float and one binderVtie-up. It would be rather easier to eut if all floats of live threadscould be dispensed with by vthrowing them to the back of the cloth andonly leaving the full floats of seven threads on the face; but by sodoing the pile would be robbed from the edges of the figure, which wouldinjure the effect to a great extent.

Fig. 3 is a section of the uncut cloth, (magnified and exaggerated,)taken through the line A B in Fig. l, the circles representing thewarp-threads; e e e e, thebinding or back weftpicks, and ffff the shortfloats of less than five threads at the edges of the pattern,carried tothe back of the cloth instead of to the faee, as heretofore.

In order to enable a weaver or other person skilled in the art ofweaving clearly to linderstand my invention, I have also shown at Fig.fi a diagram or weavers draft of part of a pattern designed according tomy invention, the class of velvet chosen for illustration being auordinary Il l cloth with a float over seven threads and one ground-pickto each four pilepicks. The black crosses denote where the warp islifted, the pattern being the same as in Figs. l and 2. Nos. l, 6, 1l,16, or every fifth pick, are plain ground-picks. The races are on everyeven end or warp threadthat is, two, four, six, and so on. rlhe edges ofthe pattern will be seen always to step in races--` that is, in twos orin. fours or other multiple of two-and all short floats over less thanve warp-threads are carried to the back of the cloth. For theturning-point of a figure (in this case turning upon five ends) see No.7 pick and Nos. 21, 22, 23, 24, and 25 warpthreads.

I have only thought it necessary to give an illustration of one kind ofweft-pile tie-up, but the same system applies to any weft-pile velvet orvelveteen tie-up, of course varying the stepping or moving of thepattern at the edges in designing according to the tie-up used. Forinstance, in a pile which has a race for every three warp-threads thepattern would step or move at the edges in threes, and in a pile whichhas arace for every four warpthreads the pattern would step or move infours, and so on.

It will be seen from the foregoing statement that my improvement infigured weft-pile fabric or velveteens consists in the combination ofthree elements or principles-namely, stepping always by the exact numberof threads equivalent to a race, or a multiple thereof, at the edges ofthe pattern, turning the points of the pattern at top and bottom on anodd number of warp-threads, and throwing the short floats to lthe backof the cloth. These three principles combined will be found so greatlyto facilitate the cutting that figured weft-pile fabrics woven accordingto my invention may be cut almost as easily and cheaply as plainvelvets.

I do not here claim a figured weft-pile fabric having the figures madewith marginal steps that are aligned with the races, and having shortfloats all thrown to the back of the cloth, as this is described andclaimed by me in another application for a patent filed simultaneouslywith this application, (Serial N o. 101,619.)

I claim as my invention- As a new manufacture, a` figured weft-pilefabric having the figures made with marginal steps that are aligned withthe races, having the points of the pattern turned on an odd number ofwarp-threads, and having all the short floats thrown to the back of thecloth, as specified.

In testimony whereoflhave signed my name to this speci ficationin thepresence of two subscribing witnesses.

. THOS. ANDERSON.

Witnesses:

Due-ALD Sco'r'r, JOHN HUGHES.

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